Thursday, February 28, 2013

Bali's Day of Silence - Nyepi

Balinese holidays and temple anniversary celebrations are observed once every 210 days. Practically all of these activities are intertwined with an agrarian society: planting, growing, and harvesting rice. This lunar based calendar is called the Saka and has its origins in South India. Each of the 12 lunar months ends on a new moon, called Tilem. The day after the new moon of the ninth lunar month is the Balinese version of New Year's Day, NYEPI. Nyepi is a Balinese "Day of Silence" that is commemorated every Isaawarsa (Saka new year) according to the Balinese calendar. This is a very important and strictly observed religious day. All activity in Bali comes to a virtual standstill.

Preparations for NYEPI begin the day before. At sundown, animals are sacrificed and given as offerings to the mischievous evil spirits. In many villages a slaughtered chicken is placed in front of the main gate to placate the negative forces. Afterwards, everyone - especially little boys - bang on anything that makes a loud noise-- including petroleum drums, pots and pans, and pieces of metal roofing and light firecrackers. Women go through each room of the household sprinkling it with holy water while men follow, waving flaming torches to exorcise bad spirits. Later the noisy process of husking rice is performed. Ample food is cooked to feed the family the following day. Nearly everyone stays awake all night and pandemonium takes over each Balinese village, as people alert the evil spirits with shouts, general din and flame.

Virtually all of Bali’s residents use the night before Nyepi to take to the streets and compete to see who has produced the most fearsome three and four meter high paper mache “ogoh-ogoh” (monster). They represent demons and foul spirits who must be exorcised before the coming dawn of purification and introspection.

At dawn there is silence, as NYEPI's observances begin and continue for the next 24 hours. For all Balinese, NYEPI is a time to reflect on the past year and any transgressions that may have been made. People also contemplate on how they can become a better person in the New Year. It is a day of silence, prayer, fasting and meditation. The Balinese are forbidden to light fires or use electricity; drive or go for a walk outside; listen to the radio or watch television. Family members speak in lowered tones. Priests and higher caste members fast and do not take a drink.

Some people have been led to believe that by creating an appearance of absolute calm and abandonment, the few stubborn evil spirits that still remain after the previous day's exorcism drift away. Hindu scholars explain differently. The noise on NYEPI is not designed to scare the demons away, but intended rather to wake them so they will take note of the offerings that have been laid for them. The quietude on the day after is not intended to trick the bad spirits into thinking that everyone has left, rather it is a matter of a symbolic showing of how the forces of evil are satisfied and will not bother anyone -- at least for a while, anyway.

NYEPI commands profound devotion from the Balinese people.

The effect of these prohibitions is that Bali’s usually bustling streets and roads are empty, there is little or no noise from TVs and radios, and few signs of activity are seen even inside homes. The only people to be seen outdoors are the Pecalang, traditional security men who patrol the streets to ensure the prohibitions are being followed.

Although Nyepi is primarily a Hindu holiday, non-Hindu residents of Bali observe the day of silence as well, out of respect for their fellow citizens. Even tourists are not exempt; although free to do as they wish inside their hotels, no one is allowed onto the beaches or streets. All vehicular and pedestrian traffic outside is severely restricted, except in the case of an emergency. The only exceptions granted are for emergency vehicles carrying those with life-threatening conditions and women about to give birth. Due to government regulations there will be no tours or transportation available. Based on Bali's government instruction on "Nyepi Day", all television channel provider will disconnect broadcast temporarily. To observe this important holiday, the Ngurah Rai International airport is closed for arrival and departure that day.

~ March 12, 2013



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